Monday, May 18th, 2009

Paris 2: Time for lunch

Dejuner in Paris is sort of a loosey-goosey thing for me–basically the second of four, possibly five meals, that occur during a typical day visiting Pairs that goes something like: breakfast, pastry, lunch, pastry/chocolate, coffee and ice cream or a beer, then dinner. And since my game plan on this trip was to save my euros for a restaurant meal every evening(and for those of you who think I’m just a yogurt-loving berry-eater, wait until you see my post on the meat consumed at Chez Georges…) I have done my best to find lunch options that are more scrappy but still delicious.
The meal above was enjoyed at Cafe de la Marie, what I consider to be a Parisian version of a diner. Yes, a diner. No, there are no jukeboxes on the tables or pink-uniformed waitresses slinging hash (in fact, it is almost impossible to find a waitress in a caf? in Paris), but it does serve food that is quick and very satisfying with an ambiance that is very no-frills and local.

Marie is located in the 6th, on the Place St. Sulpice, overlooking the fountain in front of the mysterious church of Saint Sulpice (if any of you are Da Vinci Code fans, this church plays a significant role, it’s where the albino monk does in the wily nun). The thing to do at Marie is work your way through the cafe terrace, past the stand-up bar where the publishing dudes are taking a coffee, to the back room and up the narrow steps to the upstairs dining room. From here you can still see the lovely fountain, but it is also has a neighborhood clubhouse feel, with everyone from moody young men, to exacting Parisian mothers and their children, intellectual types tapping at their laptops, and us–the Americans–eating salads and sandwiches.

I always order the same thing, the salade avec crotin chaud (Poilaine bread with warm goat cheese on top). Also important is the side plate of fresh grated carrots and a tiny bottle of vinaigrette.

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